Into Tanzania

Karibu! Is the greeting often used by Tanzanians, it simply means "Welcome!"

We have made to Zanzibar (at last!). Since leaving Mozambique Island our travels have taken us to Nacala, Pemba, Pangane, Mozambique de Praia, Rovuma River, Lindi, Kilwa, Dar and Zanzibar!

To all you diving enthusiasts Nacala is the place! It has awesome sunsets, huge corals, dolphins and masses of tropical fish. For the lucky ones they spot sunfish (we however did not) and apparently the whales come into the bay in the latter part of the year. I can only imagine how spectacular the whales would be.

At Moz de Praia, our bathroom facilities reached an all time high comprising, one bucket of water, a concrete slab and a garden hoe...

The Rovuma River crossing proved rather challenging and took 4 days to complete. The river is only half a km in width! We timed our arrival disastrously and arrived with the spring low tide for a ferry crossing that is very tide dependent. The locals, who arrive on foot, crossed in dugout canoes while we and our fellow vehicle bound travelers waited for higher water and the ferry.

While we waited for the waters to rise we camped in the bush at the waters edge, in no man's land, we had checked out of Mozambique but were not yet cleared into Tanzania. We were not alone. We Mzungu campers provided entertainment for the local children. A few other trvellers were stranded with us. There were 4 landcruiser campers from SA, a German couple, three chaps (Johan x2 and Phillip) with a boat in tow from Kempton Park. Viva the South Africans. Each group dealt with the situation in their own manner (we have many stories to tell!). Delegation skills, negotiation skills and basic survival skills were required! Mike Copeland needs to add a chapter in his book on how to crap in the bush - oh those flappy bits of loo paper! In the river the crocodiles kept us (Johan et al braved the waters) from swimming and at night the snorting hippos reminded us that we were next to an African river.

Caron began to build a toy car with scrap bolts and crushed cans and soon had a dedicated following of boys gathered round. Ross attempted to learn Swahili from the gathering. At times one could have thought that Caron had started a school next to the Landy.

Breakfasts comprised of chipatis from the local seller and marmalade from woolworths (thanks Rowan). Beers were procured using the underground network and good negotiation skills (thanks Johan et al).

The days were long and hot and everyone anxiously awaited the arrival of the ferry. Like sailors sighting land for the first time after months at see there was great excitement on the morning of its arrival. Binoculars were firmly attached to noses and eagle eyes watched the ferry approach. Half the group got on the ferry whilst the rest watched in total despair. That night the remaining few regrouped, braaied (thanks Johan et al), drank and consoled each other.

Finally crossing the river into Tanzania was sad, to leave behind the Rovuma and its children and so exciting, to be moving again. To arrive in Lindi was a revelation, electric lights, Coca Cola, chocolate biscuits and shops!

Terry (introduced to us by Johan et al) provided us with a home for a few nights while we caught our breath, did the washing and admin. He showed us the sights of Lindi and we feasted on prawns and lobster. We arrived as strangers and left as friends. Thanks Phillip, Johan x2 and Terry.

Tanzania is proving to be a whole new experience. Music plays on the ferries, markets bustle, organised tourism is alive and well, shops are full of supplies and people are very welcoming. The contrast between Moz and Tanzania is huge. Zanzibar buzzes and is alive with atmosphere.