Caross News

Caross News 2007

2007-12-22T13:40:00.000-08:00

Just as the seasons change so the years go by. This year certainly has flown by. I cannot believe we are already in December. I am way behind in my Xmas shopping. Our Xmas tree is packed under masses of boxes! I seem to spend my life trying to pack my worldly possessions in as few boxes as possible. Hopefully this will be the last move for at least a year.

Ross and I have just bought a house in Orpington, Kent. Oh sigh say all the Londoners – Not suburbia!!!!!!! Most Londoners who live within the immediate surrounding protect their urban existence and greatly fear the move to the suburbs. Suburbia stands for small gardens, houses, cars, babies and families. Ooooooh awful!!!!! For Ross and myself this move was one of survival. There are more trees, open spaces and people are more friendly. I miss the views of London from Greenwich and of course the beautiful park, the local pubs but I certainly don’t miss the crowds. We have a lovely modern 3 bedroom house with a small garden. The house has kept us busy. We got stuck into re-painting and carpeting. We have ordered some furniture but at the moment are living a very frugal existence. Needless to say most things are still in boxes. I am looking forward to unpacking goodies that were last packed several years ago.

One of the absolute treats of living in Greenwich was our local foxes. We had a family that lived in our garden. We journeyed the year with them through highs and lows. Our family had pups, one got mange, family squabbles ensued as little ones started learning about territoriality. We spent hours watching them and photographing them and now I find myself wondering how they are getting along. I made the mistake of leaving my gloves outside. Once I found them I was delighted and put them in my bag. Later I realised they really smelt bad and was a bit confused. After much deliberation I realised they had been christened by our local foxes. I chuckled, popped them in the washing machine and now look at them with new respect.

This year in part seems to have been one of survival. Both Ross and I have worked hard and spent most of our time looking for and sorting out our home. We managed to escape to Wales to see puffins. What a fantastic experience! Puffin mania hit us!!!! We were captivated by these little feathery visitors and snapped away recording their every move on our cameras. Thank goodness for modern technology – we took hundreds of digital photos! A few of these are on our website.

Speaking of our website – apologies for not having kept it updated. Household admin seems to have overcome us and we have not been good at keeping in touch with the outside world.

Earlier in the year we headed back to SA to catch up with friends and family. It was wonderful to see everyone and catch up with their news. We were spoilt with a few glorious days in the berg. The weather was very good to us and we explored river valleys and slept in caves. This trip is firmly locked my memory and will be treasured.

This year we were blessed with visits from Ken, Peta and Jenny. It is fun to see family and explore areas around our home. I have not spent that much time with my mom for many years. I look forward to the next time they all come to visit. We now have enough space for visitors and welcome anyone wishing to come and stay.

One of the challenges for the year was for Ross to learn to ski. I went to Switzerland for work so we added on a few extra days and hired some ski’s. The snow had started to melt and conditions were rather awful for beginners. Needless to say we struggled but I am happy to report we succeeded. We managed to ski down a fairly large slope with our instructor hot on our heels shouting “snow plough” “snow plough”!!! That night we collapsed in bed – exhausted!

Switzerland is really lovely and I would love to go back. I got quite suntanned in the sun and enjoyed drinking beer watching people rip down the slopes and end with waves. The ski slope bars are just like bars on tropical islands. They ooze tans and attitude. They even have fake palm trees but they certainly are very entertaining.

Rugby– do I need to mention that word again. All I can say is we are still South Africans through and through and truly celebrated our world cup victory. Viva the springboks!

One of the goals for the year was to run a marathon. I have not run for months so this was quite challenge to get going. I had to deal with low levels of fitness, rain and additional kilos gained by breathing in London air. We targeted the Jersey marathon in October. Both us had a hard run but enjoyed it. We ran good times and I really enjoyed the camaraderie of fellow runners and the huge support from locals on route. My performance was aided by the SA chef at the hotel who made me porridge for the run. Look out world – SA are taking over. Jersey is a very pretty island. The race was well organised and the route was very scenic. Altogether a winner!

London certainly comes with highs and lows. Life is fast and packed with people. Ipods, trains, coffee shops and mobile phones dominate our life. I love the Xmas lights, theatre and bakewell tarts. I wonder what the attraction of ketties crisps are and why supermarket trolleys never ride in a straight line! I laugh at the adverts to buy a goat for impoverished Africans. I wonder how much food is truly organic and find myself pondering the fate of the labour party. Thank goodness I am not addicted to Eastenders!

Well the winter may be here, the days may be short and blustery but the lights are bright and the pubs are warm. Xmas is a fun time, a time to reflect and get in touch with friends and family. Thank you everyone who has supported us and continued with us on our adventures!

We look forward to seeing you and hearing your news.

Puffin Mania

2007-07-22T13:10:00.001-07:00

We have been engulfed by puffin mania!!!! - Puffins landing, puffins taking off, puffins fishing for sandeels, puffins cleaning their burrows and peeping out of the daisies. Hooray the puffins have landed! Last year we went in search of the little feathery creatures but alas they had headed back to sea. They spend about 9 months at sea and only come to land to breed. This year luckily we had the pleasure of their company for 3 days on a small island called Skommer which is located just SW of Wales.

The puffins are a sheer delight to watch as they go about their business. They are about the size of a pigeon and nest in burrows on the top of cliffs. They are not shy, nor are they afraid of humans. They peer sideways at objects and whilst on land borrow a colourful enlarged beak. In the sky they wiz around and are remarkably difficult to photograph, on water they bob like a rubber ducks and whilst in their burrows they emit strange sounds – aaagh aaagh aagh.

Dolphins, seals, razorbills (see picture below), nocturnal manx shearwaters being slaughtered by black-backed gulls are just a few other wonders of Skommer. All in all a real wildlife treat was had by Ross and myself.

2007-07-22T06:07:00.000-07:00

2007-07-22T06:05:00.000-07:00

Tour de France in London

2007-07-22T05:55:00.000-07:00

The Tour de France came to London so we had to take to the streets of Greenwich along with thousands of other Londoners to see the spectacle. Fist was the anticipation, then a few police motorcycles buzzed by. The crowd’s excitement grew. Suddenly, with a whoosh of moving air and the clicking of gears the peloton blurred by.

Londoners filled the Streets

2007-07-22T05:52:00.000-07:00

Fabian Cancellara in Yellow

2007-07-22T05:03:00.000-07:00

The Peloton Passes in a Blur

2007-07-22T05:01:00.000-07:00

Amazed by the Spectacle?

2007-07-22T04:52:00.000-07:00

Foxes in our Garden

2007-07-01T11:58:00.000-07:00

We have a family of foxes in our garden. They are real characters. The old dog fox walks with a limp, probably from an altercation with a car. Our beautiful vixen has a piercing stare, she can gaze right through you when she chooses. The cubs are wild and woolly, badly behaved children that run shrieking around the garden as they chase each other. One of them sadly looks like he is not going to make it - he has mange. Watching them has gives us great joy.

Two Cubs

2007-07-01T11:57:00.000-07:00

Fox Cub

2007-07-01T11:56:00.000-07:00

Old Dog

2007-07-01T11:54:00.000-07:00

Vixen

2007-07-01T11:52:00.000-07:00

Spring News

2007-05-13T12:08:00.000-07:00

At last we have managed to post a picture onto our blog, need to scratch around for a couple more pictures to post. We must dig out some from our long forgotten SA holiday.

Well, since SA we have been rather dull - house hunting you see. It can be depressing especially as new comers to one of the most expensive cities in the world at the end of (we hope) a property boom. Lately all our spare time has been spent on property web sites, reading property papers and looking at properties. Hopefully we will be done with this house hunting phase soon, we intend to put an offer in on a little house on the outskirts of London tomorrow.

Orpington is a commuter suburb on the edge of the greenbelt. To most people that live in London suburbia is a fate as desirable as smallpox. Looks like suburbia here we come. The London property buying business is a minefield; leasehold; freehold; prejudices – East, West, old, new, suburbia and financial constraints. In many ways it is simpler for us we just have to find ourselves a patch to call our own.

Oh wait; it hasn’t all been that dull since SA we have also been to Switzerland. The Swiss are nutters! This skiing business! Hurtling down steep slippery slopes in plastic boots fixed to some glorified glass fibre boards. Fast, backwards, forwards over jumps…

Davos that we visited does have a disproportionate number of people on crutches.

We had to give it a go. Now learning to ski as adults as opposed to being born on those skis is a frustrating business. Did we mention that we wanted to learn in two days, on slushy end of season snow? So far skiing seems to either be out of control or the boring old snow plough. Most of our first morning was spent with an instructor making us walk sideways up a slope on our skis or slowly winding our way down the slope with her yelling “and shnowplough, good shnowplough.”

Summer is resisting arrival. Spring arrived suddenly with an abundance of buds, birds and insects. Locals stripped and flocked to the parks. Cider and ice consumption began! No sooner was everyone getting a tan when the weather turned and well we have been subjected to winds, grey and wet!!! The weather has not dampened the procreation needs of the squirrels, birds and foxes. Not a minute is wasted. If the animals are not feeding they are humping.

This morning we experienced one of London’s little treasures, “Columbia Rd market”. It was raining but off we went in true British style. The market is primarily a flower market with East Ender sellers marketing their wares. We indulged in coffee, cake and left with bunches of flowers (Cape fynbos and proteas) and potted herbs. Ross and I eyed little treasures for our future house.

We look forward to our visits from friends and family. The next couple of months will certainly be fun.

Blue Bells in our Garden

2007-05-13T11:35:00.000-07:00

Paragliders in the Snow

2007-05-13T11:33:00.000-07:00

Hot tub in the Mountains

2007-05-13T11:32:00.000-07:00

In the Alps

2007-05-13T11:31:00.000-07:00

The view from our Davos Youth Hostel

2007-05-13T11:29:00.000-07:00

More London Snow

2007-05-13T11:27:00.000-07:00

London Snow

2007-01-28T03:53:00.000-08:00

This week we saw our first proper London Snow. I woke up, went to the kitchen put the kettle on and looked out the window. “My word we have had a heavy frost, hang on that is not frost.” The cars were completely white, the lawn was white and the road was white but for the tracks from the first couple of early morning cars.

While I was looking out onto the white lawn below a fox ran past sniffing around in the snow, leaving a trail of footprints in the fresh snow. We dressed as warmly as we could and rushed off to the park to take some pictures, arriving late at work – you know transport difficulties.

Greenwich Park with snow is a different place; people greet one another; the dogs cavort even more than usual and the pace is so much slower.

Here are some of our photographs…

View Into the Docklands

2007-01-28T03:52:00.000-08:00

Snowy Tree & Path

2007-01-28T03:51:00.000-08:00

Stairs in the Park

2007-01-28T03:50:00.000-08:00

The Royal Obsevatory

2007-01-28T03:49:00.000-08:00

Caron on Blackheath

2007-01-28T03:48:00.000-08:00

A Cold and Snowy Park

2007-01-28T03:46:00.000-08:00

Night out in the City

2006-11-26T12:05:00.000-08:00

Last night Caron had a girl’s night out in London, so Ross took the opportunity to walk around with a camera in the city. Of course there are loads of people out there taking pictures, most of them are tourists, taking pictures of each other in front of the Houses of Parliament, a fountain or Picadilly Circus.

At times like this I don’t know weather I should feel that I belong in London or weather I should feel like a visitor. No – London is not completely home yet. It is wonderful to be able to wander freely around a city at night, a different kind of freedom that is new.

London Eye & Houses of Parliament from the Jubilee Bridge

2006-11-26T11:54:00.000-08:00

Big Ben

2006-11-26T11:53:00.000-08:00

Rodent - Greenwich Park

2006-11-21T12:29:00.000-08:00

St Ives Cornwall

2006-11-21T12:28:00.000-08:00

Caron at the Ruislip Woods

2006-11-21T12:23:00.000-08:00

Water of Nevis

2006-11-21T12:18:00.000-08:00

Meanach Bothy

2006-11-21T12:16:00.000-08:00

Isle of Man Sunset

2006-11-21T12:15:00.000-08:00

Hiking with Neil on the Isle of Man

2006-11-21T12:08:00.000-08:00

Dover Pebble Beach

2006-11-21T12:06:00.000-08:00

Caron on a Steaming Beach - Dover

2006-11-21T12:05:00.000-08:00

Cornish Coast

2006-11-21T12:03:00.000-08:00

Back on the Blog

2006-08-09T13:56:00.000-07:00

Hello blog sorry for the neglect.

Hello friends. Please contact us at caross_amor@yahoo.co.uk Jens, Andrea, Martin and Stephanie please get in touch with us we have lost your details.

We have traded a tent on a Landrover for a flat on the third floor. We still get good views of the trees but don’t get elephants strolling past our windows. Life in London is fast, fun and cosmopolitan. One minute one is in the Caribbean, then Africa, then east Europe. Tattoos, ipods, big boobs and sunglasses are in. Beer and fish and chips are a sure thing. During summer grey clothes are traded for coloured but this will soon change as winter fast approaches.

London life is strangely more laid back than Johannesburg, probably all down to not having to drive anymore

This evening we have been watching a fox from our flat window. Foxes have become our buddies they are London wild life. With our flat being on the edge of Greenwich Park and Blackheath we have lots of open spaces that are habitat for our buddies.

A couple of weeks ago we witnessed a fox kill without the aid of a Landrover or guide. We were walking home from Blackheath when our well trained eyes spotted a potential kill. A well adapted urban fox had spotted a London thorough-bred pigeon. The slick manoeuvre took place quickly and it was not long before the fox was looking up at us in-between mouthfuls of pigeon and feather plucking.

Even though we have been here for about six month s Ross still gets a buzz out of walking past the London landmarks on the way to work. Cross London bridge (London Bridge is falling down, falling down) look across to the HMS Belfast moored on the River Thames, just below Tower Bridge. After that walk past the Monument (to those who died in the great London Fire) before you see that Ross disappears down a lane to the office.

This is our life now…

2006-02-21T14:01:00.000-08:00

Bush Babies, Bush Babies, Bush Babies...

2006-02-21T13:59:00.000-08:00

Hornbill

2006-02-21T13:58:00.000-08:00

Cat food

2006-02-21T13:56:00.001-08:00

Male lions spar

2006-02-21T13:56:00.000-08:00

You gonna call me Kitty?

2006-02-21T13:49:00.000-08:00

Mommy and Juniors

2006-02-21T13:48:00.000-08:00

Ground Squirrel

2006-02-21T13:47:00.000-08:00

Jackal

2006-02-21T13:46:00.001-08:00

The Cheetah family

2006-02-21T13:46:00.000-08:00

Bat Eared Fox Babies

2006-02-21T13:44:00.000-08:00

Central Kalahari Sun Set

2006-02-21T13:42:00.000-08:00

The Cheetah family

2006-02-21T13:38:00.002-08:00

Cheetah cubs

2006-02-21T13:38:00.001-08:00

Botswana is big sky country

2006-02-21T13:38:00.000-08:00

Campfire in the Delta

2006-02-21T13:36:00.000-08:00

Dancing Bushmen - Tsodilo Hills

2006-02-21T13:34:00.000-08:00

Okavango Delta

2006-02-21T13:31:00.000-08:00

Elephants are so protective of their young

2006-02-21T13:27:00.000-08:00

Yawning Hippo - South Luangwa

Belated Botswana news – Botswana to Johannesburg

2006-01-15T23:40:00.000-08:00

After 7 months on the road we crossed what we thought would be our penultimate border and negotiated our last river crossing by ferry. Africa is always full of surprises and this crossing was no different. Following queues, confusion and a hefty R160 payment we managed to cross the river. Lucky for us we still had Rands tucked away. Caron was rather excited about entering Botswana but was also nervous. Despite having travelled in all sorts of terrain she had heard that Botswana was truly wild, sand roads and very sparse population. Anything could happen!

We headed for a campsite in Kasane and hoped for a cold beer overlooking the Chobe River. Success – we had awesome sunset views overlooking the Chobe. We got to meet a bush pig that could open marshmallow packets. We also started to encounter more South Africans, a reminder that we were getting closer to the end of our trip. The general idea at that stage was to drive through Chobe National Park to Maun, but an anthrax outbreak in the park meant that access to the river in the park was restricted; rains meant that the roads were potentially horrendous – time for a change of plans. We decided that we would quickly nip out to Namibia, drive across the Caprivi Strip and then back into north western Botswana.

Off we headed through another border post and giggled that the adventure certainly would not be over until we drove in to Johannesburg.

The Caprivi Strip has always been one of those places that stands out on a map, begging to be visited. On the ground it was fairly unremarkable, aside from its brilliant road. Yes we were definitely getting closer to home - the roads were improving. We even found a roadside pick nick spot, complete and clean. More remarkable was that we were able to use the picnic site without an audience gathering, Namibia and Botswana have far lower population than most of the countries that we had visited.

The whole reason for wanting to be in the North West corner of Botswana was to get to see the rock art at the Tsodilo hills. The road to the Tsodilo is legendary for being a test of ones 4x4 driving skills and we were rather apprehensive. Lucky for us the road has just been upgraded and provided very little challenge. There is even a sign indicating the turn-off from the main road. This was a wonderful surprise and certainly quite unlike other culturally significant sites we had visited.

The Tsodilo hills are three large lumps of rock that rise out of the flat Kalahari, male hill, female hill and the child hill. The hills house one of the most significant rock art collections in Africa. The camp sites were remote and had great facilities. We were free to wonder around the area, discover and view the art. Some of the significant art was marked but one certainly was left with the feeling that one had only seen the tip of the iceberg. The area is wonderfully peaceful and one leaves with reluctance. It is a very special place that deserves time for the adventurous spirit to explore and soak in its wonders and rich history.

From rock art to boat trips – we headed to Guma Lagoon were we were treated with an Okavango adventure. Our guide and ourselves began our journey in a speed boat and headed into the network of bulrush and water Lilly channels. My heart stopped as we zoomed past huge crocodiles basking in the sun. We picked up our makoro on one of the islands poled around for 2 days. Birds took off around us, red lechwe and situtunga leapt through the water. Luckily we did not have any close encounters with hippos and were able to relax and absorb the magic of the delta. The water level was really low but we were relieved we were not required to get out and push.

From the ground to the air – we headed to Maun and got in a plane for an aerial view of the Okavango. What an awesome treat! The plane dipped and dived as we saw elephant, giraffe, buffalo and vast herds of antelope.

Whilst in Maun we met up with Mary (we met Mary in Tanzania), drank copious amounts of red wine and giggled about our adventures. She recommended we head for the Central Kalahari as it had just started raining and everything was green.

Little did we know what a treat was awaiting us? Kilometres of sand track, green pans, open areas and loads of animals. The camp sites were very basic but good. There were pit loo’s and shower buckets enclosed in reed shelters at some of the sites. They were very well constructed and quite a treat. We were expecting the “Tanzanian hole in the ground”. We carried all water and food supplies. We spent our time gazing at awesome sunsets, watching lion mate and spar and cheetah hunt. There were both big and small animals. We watched ground squirrels for hours and found it quite fascinating how they use their bushy tails as sunshields. As we were leaving the park we saw baby bat-eared foxes. Wow is all we can say!!!! Caron loved the wide open spaces and says it was the one place where she truly felt free. Strangely in Africa one is never alone as little people pop out the bush when one least expects it. The Central Kalahari is one place where one is alone and it is a privilege. Thank you Botswana for giving us a truly “free African experience.”

Sadly we had to head home as they say, “time was not our friend” and time was running out. Xmas was one it way. We spent the night at the Karma Rhino Sanctuary and just absorbed the bush and all it had to offer. As we drove towards the South African border post we reflected on our trip and just tried to absorb all we had experienced. We chatted, joked and at times just were quiet in our own thoughts. All we can really say is how lucky we were to have had such an adventure. One thing is for sure we will start planning the next one as soon as we have touched down in the land of reality.

Our final night was spent at Marakele National Park in South Africa. Aaaah we could see we were home with all the kitted 4x4, caravans, bush toys and fantastic facilities. When we heard the hairdryer going in the bathrooms we knew we were home!!!!

In and out of Zambia

2005-11-30T08:06:00.000-08:00

Our fleeting visit of Zambia has been awesome, from South Luangwa Park to Victoria Falls.

South Luangwa Park has a great reputation and it lived up to it. We were lucky enough to see a couple of leopards (the park is legendary for them) and if that was not enough we watched wide eyed as a pair of lions stalked and killed a baby Puku. It is the first time we have seen a lion kill and we needed a good gin and tonic after the trauma and suspense of the kill. It was action, action all the way with elephants loping around the campsite and hippos munching on the grasses around the tent. We certainly did not test the theory that elephants are attracted to oranges and kept all our food safely stored in a hut away from the car. The rains were only beginning in the area but all the game had young with them. There were baby impala’s that were 3 weeks old, baby bushpigs, giraffe, hippos……Everything had clearly been mating in the park!

From parks to falls….crash, rumble, water, spray. The photo says it all.
From here we are of to Botswana to catch a Mokoro.

2005-11-30T07:36:00.000-08:00

Our cooks at Mushroom Farm

2005-11-30T07:35:00.000-08:00

Luxury at Mushroom Farm, near Livingstonia Malawi

2005-11-30T07:34:00.000-08:00

Getting greasy at Nyika, Bertha wanted TLC

2005-11-30T07:32:00.000-08:00

Nyika sunset

2005-11-30T07:31:00.000-08:00

Orchid hunting at Nyika

2005-11-30T07:30:00.000-08:00

Lake Malawi

2005-11-30T07:29:00.000-08:00

Fish in transit

2005-11-30T07:28:00.000-08:00

Vic Falls from Zimbabwe

2005-11-30T07:27:00.000-08:00

Buying Bananas from a Tanzanian family

Malawi

2005-11-21T02:09:00.000-08:00

Hello from the “warm heart of Africa – Malawi!” What a wonderful surprise we got when we arrived in Malawi. The people are really friendly. Even the cops are very chatty and friendly. Silly friendly really! Unlike the rest of our travels where when a cop stops you, he is looking for ammunition to use against you – the cracked windscreen; you driving bare foot; no triangles….you watch those eyes scanning the car. Malawian cops just want to chat and welcome you, the weather, the people where are you going, how did you like? We were stopped by a cop that had been to South Africa. On a busy road, we discussed Kempton Park & Midrand the traffic built up behind us. Eventually when the traffic build up could not be ignored he waved us through the roadblock.

It is relaxing and just warm and comfortable. We have lazed in the sun at the lake and have just enjoyed the relaxed pace. At the moment we are in Lilongwe catching up with admin and yes we have to admit shopping at shoprite! There are no more Nakumats (the wonder shop of Kenya). Locally there are the PTC (Peoples Trading Centre). They carry most items one would need. I now have a new respect for Heinz baked beans. They are everywhere!

After spending a wonderful time in Arusha (thanks Johan!) we headed straight out the country and for Malawi. Crossing the border was rather uneventful and we quickly got our first glimpse of the lake. It is huge. Generally one cannot see the other side of the lake. Local communities scatter the shores. Houses are built from bricks but have a shaggy roof made of grass. Fish sits elevated on stick tables sunning. Fishermen paddle their dugouts along the shore. Children walk barefoot on the road and wave enthusiastically as we go past.

Our first night was spent at a local hotel at Karonga. We drank Carlsburg beer, ate fish (chambo) and swam with the locals whilst they washed their clothes and bathed! Ah this is Africa!!!

We spent a couple of nights at Chitemba at a camp run by a South African (they are everywhere). It was a really lovely stretch of beach but it was strange as the locals were not allowed on the beach in front of the resort.

Livingstonia (legendary mission) was rather uneventful. The mission is still occupied. It was built on top of the rift valley for health reasons (no malaria). The drive up to the mission was quite spectacular and at times rather nerve-wracking. The road is a dirt road comprising 20 switch-back bends that were so tight we had to take the corner in several moves! Viva our TDI! We met a couple who made it up in a series 3 landy and they looked positively traumatized! Every bend required several moves.

We stayed at an eco-friendly camp on the Rift Valley amongst brachystygia woodland vegetation. Sadly Malawi is terribly dry and vaste areas of the woodland were burning. We stayed in an A-frame hut and woke to wonderful views of the lake. We were wined and dined in true style. A local cook prepared our meals that were tasty, well spiced, healthy and mostly vegetarian. We drank filter coffee and ate locally made bread. All we can say is it was awesome!!! One showered with ferns and sat on the throne with views of the lake.

From the heat of the lake we headed for Nyika plateau. Out came the thermal underwear and down sleeping bags. We spent a wonderful couple of days just walking amongst the rolling hills. It is the first wildlife area we have come across that allows one to walk freely. We saw roan, bushbuck, eland and reedbuck. The campsite was very well organized – another surprise! The rains had begun in the area and the wild flowers were out. We met a wonderful family (Maggie and the gang) who were out wild flower hunting. We spent a fun morning wading through the bogs looking for orchids. Great excitement when one was spotted. Just as we were departing, the landy started talking to us in a rather unwanted tone. We looked at each other and hearts sank. We limped back to the camp were Dr Ross diagnosed the problem and performed the surgery. He successfully changed the front drive shaft universal joint!!!!! After our unplanned mechanical training, we headed off to Makuzi on the lake.

What a wonderful piece of paradise! We camped on the lake for a couple of days in this isolated bay. We read, drank beer and just lazed. We dived in the lake, which was quite a different experience from the sea. There were no currents or surges and certainly no corals. There were plenty of ciclids that swam amongst the rocks.

Senga Bay was full of local action. Unfortunately we arrived over the weekend. Just like Tanzania the local population really uses the picnic and camping spots. We had several people swimming and picnicking around us. A few truckloads of British soldiers even arrived and proceeded to re-hydrate! Luckily the day was not too hectic. The fun only got better as the sun set. First a microbus got very stuck in the sand. It was so buried even body work was under sand. The soldiers tried to rock the car out. Then a local landy tried to pull it out. In its great enthusiasm it only snapped several towropes and cables. After 3 hours, plenty of digging and a slow organized plan, another 4x4 managed to pull them out! Once they departed (later returned to sleep on the beach due to car trouble) our neighbors began smoking the pipe and partying. Needless to say we did not get much sleep.

We are learning to do things local. We bought fish from a fisherman in a dugout and Ross filleted it. We cooked it over a fire and it tasted wonderful. Ross has mastered the art of baking bread on a fire and treated us to several buns and loaves. Our morning highlight is brewing local coffee in a flask and then filtering it through a sock (we have nothing else). It makes great coffee and feeds our addictions that began in Ethiopia!

2005-10-30T01:53:00.000-08:00

Caron sitting on one of the tanks that litters the Ethiopian mountain passes

Our Bertha broken down in the middle of nowhere

2005-10-30T01:50:00.000-08:00

Our Berta brokendown in the middle of nowhere

2005-10-30T01:47:00.000-08:00

A priest sits on the steps of one of the famous churches carved into the ground

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The Lalibela cross, five kilos of gold and a super cool priest, the sunglasses because of camera flash.

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Had to show you some Ethiopian scenery

Ethiopia to Nairobi

2005-10-30T01:44:00.000-08:00

After months of African travel, we were beginning to think that we could take anything in our stride, well Ethiopia broke our stride and blew our minds. Ethiopia had us constantly guessing, always unsure of where we stood and never knowing what would be next. Just as Asia has India, Africa has Ethiopia. Spicy food, beggars, poverty, fleas, beautiful scenery, a big country, Ethiopia is an overwhelming experience.

After climbing Mt. Kenya, an amazing experience and a really beautiful, rugged mountain, a cold mountain as Caron will tell you, we hit the road north. The road to Ethiopia has a reputation for being one of the roughest in Kenya and Kenyan roads are reputed to some of the worst in Africa…

Input Caron – Mt Kenya was awesome!!!! From the time we left SA Ross has wanted to climb a high peak in Africa. I however, was not convinced. I tried hard not to think about the whole idea. Then like everything the moment arrived. We had several debates about which mountain we would climb but by a process of elimination we ended up on Mt Kenya. I am very glad we did it. For the first time on the trip we had spectacular weather. We managed to summit and had clear views. We saw the sunrise and could see Mt Meru and Kili. The mountain is very rugged and has glaciers. I have never been so cold in all my life but it was truly exhilarating!

Yes the sensible way to go to Ethiopia is to fly, get picked up at the airport and be transferred to your luxury Addis Abbiba hotel. We took on the brutish Moyale road and all its scenery. The road runs past mountains; through two deserts; through Marsabit, a dusty scruffy mountain top town and finally into Ethiopia. As we drove we passed the Samburu people who still herd their animal in gaudy traditional dress, camel trains in search of water and gunmen guarding their livestock. We were awestruck by the time we entered Ethiopia.

Our first experience of Ethiopian food had us convinced that we would be very happy in the country. Eating is a very sociable event, food is served on Injera a large sour pancake like bread. You tear off a piece of the Injera, wrap some food in it and eat, no cutlery, one very big plate for the table. All of the food is spicy, for our first meal we were lucky to try one of the mildest, cubed fried meat. By the end of our Ethiopian time we had found that our Western constitutions just could not take the pace. We began to fear Wat, Ethiopia’s version of stew, made with loads of spices, lashings of garlic, bags of onions, gee and tomatoes all cooked for hours to reduce and concentrate the flavours. The national delicacy is Doro Wat, one chicken leg or wing, one boiled egg and a bowl full of Wat sauce. More than being an acquired taste, Wat must take years of digestive tract adaptation.

Coffee, coffee everywhere!!! Funky coffee shops line the streets of Addis as well as small towns. Noisy coffee machines work overtime as locals sit and enjoy their coffee. Coffee is served in small cups and is quite strong. Cakes and pastries are available. We discovered a local coffee shop and indulged in machiato’s and donuts for two for five rand!!!

A yell of, “You! Yew! Yew!”, is the standard greeting that is used by Ethiopian children, apparently in their culture it is not rude, so after getting used to it, you begin to yell back, “Yes you” or “Hello you”, which everyone seems to love.

Our northern most point was Lalibela with the rock-strewn churches. They are a real achievement in architecture and quite unlike anything we have ever seen before. What was a real treat was that the churches are still in use and not just decaying structures. Priests stroll around the corridors chanting and praying. During the tourist season the priests sit in the churches, pray and pose for photos. Of course a model fee is required. As business is so good the priests have taken to wearing sunglasses to protect their eyes from flashes. Every good tourist needs a photo of a priest as a photo truly speaks a thousand words.

The past few months have posed several challenges and the hard roads have taken their toll on the car. We broke down in Lalibela (a travelers nightmare) but with the assistance of a great overland mechanic and Ross’s improving mechanical skills the problem was temporarily fixed. We had to shop for parts in Addis and Nairobi and negotiate with local mechanics (truly daunting). We have replaced 4 shocks, an alternator and repaired a puncture!!! After speaking to locals it seems we got off lightly with our car problems and we will be glad to be on the road again.

Everything about Ethiopia was just as foreign as greetings and food were. After three weeks we were flea bitten, nervous drivers, tired and suffering from experience overload. There is lots still to see in beautiful Ethiopia, we left with very mixed feelings and are now looking forward to Malawi and more relaxing travel in Southern Africa.

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Berta broken down in Lalibela, 800km of bad road to Addis

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Shot up tanks litter the Ethiopian mountain passes

Kenya & Uganda

2005-09-17T05:38:00.000-07:00

A little more of Kenya…………

Lake Naivasha, Hell’s Gate and Masai Mara

Birds, birds everywhere! Birding around the lake was awesome. We planned to spend a couple of days exploring the area by bicycle and hiking. All plans were foiled when Ross contracted malaria. Everything came to grinding halt whilst he recovered. Once he was stronger we went for a slow walk around Hells Gate hoping to see bubbling hot springs as the area is still volcanically active. The area is quite spectacular and reminded us of the Karoo.

After our initial visit to the Masai Mara we decided to return in the hope of seeing the legendary National Geographic infamous wildebeest river crossings. We did our homework and arrived at the recommended location wondering if we would get lucky. Things were very tense as we scouted the banks of the Mara River for wildebeest getting ready to cross. Nothing!!! We drove up and down the river and later in the day we saw a crossing. It was good but nothing like our expectations. However, the following day we were blown away with what we witnessed. We sat waiting with flask of coffee in hand just waiting and watching. The atmosphere was tense as we saw some wildebeest preparing to cross. The river was full, as it had rained the previous night. There was a strong current. Crossing the river is serious business for the wildebeest and they do not cross if there is anything that disturbs them. Sadly the previous day we witnessed several crossings being disturbed by wealthy tourists trying to get up close and personal at the crossings. We sat quietly, luckily the only vehicle in the area, and just waited. The herd began to cross. Wildebeest leapt into the water whilst many streamed in behind them. Dust sprayed up off the bank as hundreds followed the leaders. Crocodiles lay in the water snapping at those that went astray. We sat holding our breath as the herd struggled for survival. Success at last! The majority of the herd crossed safely and we just sat quite blown away with the natural phenomenon we had just witnessed.

Uganda

Welcome to Mango country (Uganda in 21 days)! Mango country is wet, green, muddy and awesome!!!! It is covered in huge forests, swamps, marrum (mud) roads, wild vegetation, para-military guides at all national parks and many community campsites (always an adventure). Important words are dala-dala (bicycle taxi), matatu (taxi), poshu (mealie pap) and matooke (green banana).

Jinja was our starting point and we were soon off to organize permits to see the gorillas at Bwindi National Park.

Kasese and Ruwenzori National Park. We enjoyed local cuisine of matooke, beef stew, rice and potato and stayed in a local hotel, the Saad. The night was full of adventure!

The Crater lakes, Busingiro and Khanya Phabidi were filled with adventures of community campsites and chimp tracking. In many ways chimp tracking was more fun than tracking gorillas. We went out with a guide and we anxiously waited to hear to the chimps call. The morning we went out they were silent. We walked this way then that way waiting for a call to give us a hint as to their location. At last there was raucous chatter from the chimps and we were hot on their trail. The guide broke out in a grin and altered our direction. Our pace picked up and we moved quickly and silently searching the tree tops. Great excitement – we saw them. They are wonderful to watch.

Murchison National Park was filled with contrasts. We passed through a mahogany forest, then woodland and savanna. Tse-tsi flies bombarded our car on entry to the woodland area. Regular intervals were filled with panic as flies managed to enter the car. The little bastards don’t die easily and we would only consider a hit successful if the little cretin was thrown out the window!!!! Merely striking the fly hard did very little to deactivate it!!! We arrived at the campsite traumatized and wondered if we had made a mistake. However, we got to see a top and bottom view of Murchison falls. They are spectacular. The Nile River above the falls is huge, full and has many rapids. We were blown away by the size of the river and how it pounds over the falls. Water sprays everywhere. We viewed the bottom of the falls by boat. The Nile below the falls is full of crocodiles and hippos that give one the beady eye as one passes by. After much debate we ferried across the river and went for a game drive in the eastern part of the park. Wow, we were really glad we did. We caught glimpses of the Congo and got to view all sorts of game we have never seen before! We got a bit of a shock when we saw a military tank armed and ready to go in the middle of the park. We later learnt that the northern area is very unstable due to rebel activity so there is a military base in the park.

Just outside Murchison Park is a small town called Masindi. We camped at the wonderfully colonial hotel in its immaculate gardens. The hotel was established in 1923 and has just been renovated. As an added treat the hotel has its own bakery. For breakfast we tucked into donuts and coffee. The bakery bakes 800 loaves of bread daily and delivers them to the town and its surrounds by bicycle.

The journey from the east to west of Uganda proved rather challenging. We hoped to go direct from Murchison to Mt Elgon via the northern part of the country. This we were told was impossible due to rebel activity in the area. We first had to head south and then go across the country. On route we saw several military camps and at times saw armed army chaps sitting at the side of the road. Mmmm a bit of a strange experience!

We spent the better part of 5 days hiking in the Mt Elgon National Park. We had 2 guides and Caron had a porter to carry her bag (luxury!!!!!). The park encompasses spectacular scenery. Wild flowers were in bloom everywhere. The hike at times was rather challenging. We climbed to an altitude of 4320m and often walked in rain (not gentle rain but huge deluges that left water bubbling at the surface where the water table intersected the surface).

Now our journey has taken us back to Jinja. The rain continues and roads in Uganda are now becoming quite challenging. We had to take a detour to get to Jinja due to a sinkhole. The sinkhole was on a major trucking route so there is currently chaos on the roads.

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Uganda road detour 1

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Caron at the highest peak of Mt Elgon

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Zebras in the Masai Mara

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The Saad Hotel, lessons in lighting & decor

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The Rwenzori, big mountain, big plants, big water.

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The Masai river crossings. Wildebeest, croc's, all action.

Tanzania to Nairobi

2005-08-02T03:43:00.000-07:00

Trekking in the Usambara mountains

We arrived in Loshoto to rain, rain, mud and more rain. This did not look good for 5 days walking in the mountains. We shacked up at a local hotel, drank beers and sat around the fireplace where we met our guide for the trek - Aggrey! A route through the mountains and villages was established and off we went. Little did we know what awaited us. We stayed in local guesthouses (nothing like SA and Ross had close encounters with bedbugs), we ate in local restaurants (thank goodness no tummy trouble), walked our little legs off (average 20km per day) and had plenty opportunity to greet communities. Children flocked to see us (who needs Hollywood. Muzungu's head for Africa) and often shrieked with delight when we managed to greet them in Swahili. Kids enthusiastic to practice their English greetings would start yelling out their greetings when we first appeared over the horizon until we again disappeared over the horizon. We even learnt a ouple of new greetings. "How is your condition?", "Hello Teacher", "Hello Fundisi". At times it was quite draining having people want to see us all the time. We found refuge in a local catholic convent. It was peaceful, warm and the food was great. What a treat to have quiet time to just be! The birds in the area are quite something. We just continually were gazing through binoculars and frantically flipping through birdbooks.

Rock art hunting in Kolo area

We headed south west from Arusha, the Safari capital, towards Dodoma the administrative capital after about 150km of bone jarring rutted road we arrived in Kolo. Quite why the capital is so hard to get to one can not figure. We passed broken trucks all the way. In Kolo, a guide hopped on board, Caron was stashed in the back of the car and Ross's 4x4 driving skills were challenged to find the elusive but plentiful art. The guide had only a few words - 4x4 and drive forward. A guide that does not want to walk, has no responsibility for the car and no sympathy for anything mechanical can have some terrifying expectations of a Landrover! At times Caron looked back and could not believe the terrain we had covered. The art was well worth it. There were many pictures of game: elephant, giraffe, cats. There are over 140 documented sites in the area!

We camped at a community campsite - a dry riverbed! It was beautiful. We thought at last we had our quiet piece of African bushveld. We were provided with a security guard who happily arrived later in the evening clutching his radio. Need we say anymore but our peace and quiet was no more!!!!

Climbing Mt Hannang (3450m not a molehill)

Our contribution to the local kitty was to stay at the base of the mountain at a community members field amongst the cows. She was paid a camping fee and also watched the car. On the first evening she brought us fresh milk still warm from the cow and looked very excited. Caron on the other hand did not know what to do with milk hot off the teat! She smiled and at first said she did not drink milk but promptly changed this to thank you this is wonderful. All she could think of was brucillosis!!!! Each time the lady saw us she enquired about the milk. She even threatened to bring us more. We smiled sweetly, declined this most generous offer and boiled the milk and drank it with ovaltine.

Hanang is a free standing peak that rises from the plains at 1600m to over 3000m. It is a really striking climb, from the village below first through dense forrest, then thinner forrest, finally into thick fynbos like vegetation.

The 'northern circuit' - blitzing through the great game parks and burning holes in wallets!

What can I say here except Ngorongoro is awesome. The Serengeti is wild and wonderful. In 4 days we saw more game (up close and personal) than we would have seen in 12 days in Kruger. However we had to deal with local tour 4x4, hectic weather (yes it gets very cold in Africa), little or no facilities and huge pressure to make the exit deadline time of the parks. I guess it is all part of the experience. The migration is a site to behold. I have never seen so many animals moving in the same direction with a real purpose. Vultures circle above waiting for the weak to drop off and lions hide in the grass taking their time selecting their next meal.

Tanzania Road Rules

Tanzania only has one road rule - size. The smaller vehicle gives way. Should a bigger vehicle be on your side of the road, the bigger vehicle gets to nominate which way you should go to avoid colision, that is what his indicators are for!

Shoprite

All Caron can say is that they were expensive, had a limited selection and they HAD NO RUSKS!!!! Long live the local street vendors!!!!

Entering Kenya

We attempted this via the Masai Mara. Big mistake. There is no official borderpost there and we encountered our first - 'eish we have a problem' situation! For most money would get them out of this but not us. We had time on our side and eventually got across. The details we will spare you.

Nairobi

The legendary 'Nairobari' has had us being rather cautious. We have adopted the local method of transport - 'taxi' - yep, it is the real thing. We part with good money and do not share the ride with 22 others. We have spent a couple of days here just relaxing, reading, doing the washing. A haircut was one of the more exciting events of the week. In many ways Nairobi is like Jhb. The crime here seems genuinely bad. Funny, there are adverts for anti-carhijakking courses.

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Nutmeg on the spice island

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Zanzibar is famous for its wooden carved doors

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Mother in doorway

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Back to Dar es Salaam

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Feasting at the night market

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Zanzibar, football mad

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Lock and intricate details

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Zanzibar's lanes are abuzz with traffic

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Zanzibar Rooftops

Into Tanzania

2005-06-29T11:39:00.000-07:00

Karibu! Is the greeting often used by Tanzanians, it simply means "Welcome!"

We have made to Zanzibar (at last!). Since leaving Mozambique Island our travels have taken us to Nacala, Pemba, Pangane, Mozambique de Praia, Rovuma River, Lindi, Kilwa, Dar and Zanzibar!

To all you diving enthusiasts Nacala is the place! It has awesome sunsets, huge corals, dolphins and masses of tropical fish. For the lucky ones they spot sunfish (we however did not) and apparently the whales come into the bay in the latter part of the year. I can only imagine how spectacular the whales would be.

At Moz de Praia, our bathroom facilities reached an all time high comprising, one bucket of water, a concrete slab and a garden hoe...

The Rovuma River crossing proved rather challenging and took 4 days to complete. The river is only half a km in width! We timed our arrival disastrously and arrived with the spring low tide for a ferry crossing that is very tide dependent. The locals, who arrive on foot, crossed in dugout canoes while we and our fellow vehicle bound travelers waited for higher water and the ferry.

While we waited for the waters to rise we camped in the bush at the waters edge, in no man's land, we had checked out of Mozambique but were not yet cleared into Tanzania. We were not alone. We Mzungu campers provided entertainment for the local children. A few other trvellers were stranded with us. There were 4 landcruiser campers from SA, a German couple, three chaps (Johan x2 and Phillip) with a boat in tow from Kempton Park. Viva the South Africans. Each group dealt with the situation in their own manner (we have many stories to tell!). Delegation skills, negotiation skills and basic survival skills were required! Mike Copeland needs to add a chapter in his book on how to crap in the bush - oh those flappy bits of loo paper! In the river the crocodiles kept us (Johan et al braved the waters) from swimming and at night the snorting hippos reminded us that we were next to an African river.

Caron began to build a toy car with scrap bolts and crushed cans and soon had a dedicated following of boys gathered round. Ross attempted to learn Swahili from the gathering. At times one could have thought that Caron had started a school next to the Landy.

Breakfasts comprised of chipatis from the local seller and marmalade from woolworths (thanks Rowan). Beers were procured using the underground network and good negotiation skills (thanks Johan et al).

The days were long and hot and everyone anxiously awaited the arrival of the ferry. Like sailors sighting land for the first time after months at see there was great excitement on the morning of its arrival. Binoculars were firmly attached to noses and eagle eyes watched the ferry approach. Half the group got on the ferry whilst the rest watched in total despair. That night the remaining few regrouped, braaied (thanks Johan et al), drank and consoled each other.

Finally crossing the river into Tanzania was sad, to leave behind the Rovuma and its children and so exciting, to be moving again. To arrive in Lindi was a revelation, electric lights, Coca Cola, chocolate biscuits and shops!

Terry (introduced to us by Johan et al) provided us with a home for a few nights while we caught our breath, did the washing and admin. He showed us the sights of Lindi and we feasted on prawns and lobster. We arrived as strangers and left as friends. Thanks Phillip, Johan x2 and Terry.

Tanzania is proving to be a whole new experience. Music plays on the ferries, markets bustle, organised tourism is alive and well, shops are full of supplies and people are very welcoming. The contrast between Moz and Tanzania is huge. Zanzibar buzzes and is alive with atmosphere.

Mozambique - Maputo to Mozambique Island

2005-06-08T01:37:00.000-07:00

Man this is trying with a browser set to ##Z!* Portuguese!!

Greetings from Mozambique Island! Ross and I are both well.

It has been a while since we updated our site. It has proven rather challenging to get to a internet café that is affordable and where our car is not at risk (we had attempted break ins at Inhambane and Maputo).

Bertha (our car) has had a rough ride so far. The roads have been muddy, water-filled (puddles better suited to a boat), she has been attacked by ants (mobile ant colony), almost stolen twice by Mozambican banditos but viva la landrover as she lives on!

Time is moving on and I cannot believe we have been in Moz for almost one month. The journey has been at times rather challenging. The roads have at times (most) proven rather challenging. Potholes, potholes and more potholes. We could write a book describing road surfaces. However, the people up north are full of smiles and greetings and thus has made the journey worth it. No speaka english but with a little sign language we seem to cope. The mosquitos are attacking me with vengeance despite a whole stash of armary. I hope the doxy is doing its thing!

We spent a wonderful couple of days in Quilimane. At first glance the town was a little rough but upon further investigation proved to be a wonderful experience. We stayed in a coconut plantation and walked into town (15km). Yep got to keep fit. We found a coffee and cake shop, did some grocery shopping (they had Ouma rusks but at R20 a box we gave them a skip), and did the old church photographing. On the way home we went the local way – on a bicycle carrier. Much giggling, pulling in of tummy muscles we made our way home. The locals joined us in giggles and often took several glances and greeted us with Bon Dia!

Illia de Mozambique for all its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site has to be the dirtiest place that we have ever visited. 7000 People in a couple of square kilometres, limited sanitation, no garbage disposal. It is also a city of spectacular ruins, the buildings that the Portuguese left behind are not extensively used by its present residents, they live around them as they crumble. Fig trees spread their roots between the stone walls and explode cracks as they grow, no one does anything to stop this, it is a case of a living city in ruins.

Our visit to Gorongosa National Park was also the revelation of a living tragedy. During the war Renamo was based in the area, the destruction that is left makes Chitengo very eerie, you can only wonder at the mayhem and suffering that must have been. Wildlife is very depleted (the only display in the park office is an extensive and vicious collection of traps), but the birding is fantastic! We saw many new birds for the first time.

Just as a gentle reminder not to venture into the bush for a pit stop (Sally) we saw a group clearing landmines. Every place we went to in the south there were gentle reminders of this sad war. People moving around in wheel chairs and offices of support for survivors of landmines.
On the whole we have seen a country littered with broken bridges, unused buildings and ruins. It is "a country of ruins" where people buzz around doing their daily chores with a smile. Hopefully one day the land of ruins will come into its own and prosper.

From here we will begin our run into Dar es Salam (sadly we will miss the Francois´). We are likely to stop in at Pemba and Ibo, before we cross the Rovuma river into Tanzania. In Tanzania our first vist will be Kilwa before we head for the Zanzibar!